Just like Luce della Vite of the Frescobaldi-Mondavi alliance; the Rothschild and Concha y Toro alliance scores high marks for packaging and perceived quality of their Almaviva... before you pop the cork. The difference, though, is that this wine is the real deal.
The product of a mixed Franco-Chilean marriage, Almaviva is a classic Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot that sometimes adds a dash of Carménère to the mix. The vines are located in the Maipo Valley, south of Santiago in Puente Alto. The people who tied that knot were Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Viña Concha y Toro and they named their baby after the character in Pierre de Beaumarchais’ The Marriage of Figaro (made famous in Mozart's Opera) - the Count of Almaviva.
A wine of real class...
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1997 Almaviva
Deep ruby colour. The nose is slightly lifted plum, blackcurrant and black olive plus a quite striking coffee bean note. A wine to wallow in; fat with luxurious texture and a slightly meaty aspect to the fruit. The tannins are soft and the acidity is good if not quite refreshing. À point, but I see no need to rush. Quite impressive.
1998 Almaviva
Similar colour to the '97 - almost saturated. The nose is higher toned than the '97 and wraps black olive around a black cherry core - the black olive note comes close to green pepper (capsicum). Covering them is a coating of a strong soil/ash note. The palate has very slightly prickly acidity together with a soft and fat texture - sophisticated tannins. The acidity really adds to the length. Quite drinkable now but will last for several more years. Not as charming than the '97 and the ash aspect on the nose isn't my own taste.
What's the best thing about Almaviva? It's that some semblance of sanity has come to the pricing - maybe it was easy to sell 'luxury cuvées' for 70 Euros in 2001-2 but prices in Switzerland are now about 25% lower for the 2000/2001's vs the 1998/1999's - that's great news - and that's why I didn't bother buying a 1999.
The first vintage was 1996 and gained a measure of fame by being first non-Bordeaux product to be handled by the Bordeaux negociants and sold alongside the marques of the grand châteaux. In line with the marriage partners' ambitions the vineyards are described as "Primer Orden", the Spanish-language translation of the French "Premier Grand Cru Classé". The 'French Connection' carries on at a very high level: Tod Víctor Mostero the winemaker won highest scores whilst winning his Master in Oenology at the University of Bordeaux, worked at Petrus and even consulted at Domaine de la Romanée Conti.
Puente Alto's vineyards have stony soils, wet, cool winters and summers with hot days and cool nights. The result is beautifully ripe fruit that manages to avoid jamminess and retain complexity. I wouldn't mistake this for a St.Julien, but I think the style is successful in retaining excellent balance despite the concentration. I'm not 100% convinced by the oak treatment in the 1998, particularly its cigarette-ash aspect - but this could have been exacerbated by El Niño providing a little of Bordeaux's greenness...
2000 Almaviva
Deepest colour of these 4, almost saturated with a deep ruby rim. The nose is without the ashy oak artifacts - deep luxurious black currant. Equally luxurious palate - the ripe black fruit clings to the side of your mouth helped by a little grain to the tannins. Good acidity and a lingering finish that has a trace of black olive. A true luxury cuvée and the most successful yet tasted, but perhaps the next wine might overtake it. Excellent.
2001 Almaviva
Deep colour - again almost saturated - with purple highlights. Much less ash and earth on the nose vs the 1998, though still a little. A deeply black fruit profile that's just a little tight. Like the nose, the palate is a little tight and linear though there's no missing the quality of the fruit or the excellent velvetty tannins. Good length. Little complexity, but it's a very primary expression without the tannin overload of many of this genre. Is, and will be a fine wine.
